The Development of the Korean Fashion Industry

I will be attending Seoul Fashion Week this coming Sunday and in anticipation of this, I want to look at the development of the Korean Fashion industry and Seoul Fashion Week itself.

FeetmanSeoul (http://www.feetmanseoul.com/category/korean-fashion-designers/hwang-jae-bock/) has translated a brief history of Korean High Fashion from Seoul Fashion Week's website:
1954 — Korea’s first fashion show ever is held.
According to Madame Nora Noh (who is recognized as Korea’s first fashion designer), the first fashion show ever held in Korea takes place in the Chosun Hotel.

1961 — All fashion events are officially suspended.
Although fashion shows were held several times a year from the first fashion show held in 1954, after the coup and establishment of Pak Chung Hee’s military government, fashion shows are branded a “archetypical luxury” and became impossible to stage.

1987 — Real fashion shows.
With the coming of the 1980′s, the mass popularization of fashion had begun, and with the June 29, 1987 Declaration (which revised the Constitution and ended military dictatorship), genuine fashion shows could be held and the fashion culture begins to develop at a rapid pace.

1990 — Regular fashion shows.
As Korea entered the 1990′s, the country sees the opening of regular fashion shows, first in Seoul, of course, but also in the larger cities of other regions.

And the history of Seoul Fashion Week itself, previously known as the Seoul Collection:

The Push for East Asian Cities to Become Future Fashion Capitals
After the 1990′s, Tokyo, Beijing, and Hong Kong, along with other east Asian cities, all began to strive to make their cities into future fashion capitals through the promotion of fashion collections and products produced in their own countries. Tokyo has already become one of the world’s five largest fashion shows.

Overcoming Our Weaknesses and Fostering Seoul’s Becoming a World Fashion Capital
Although it is a fact that Korea is possessed of excellent materials, the talent of our country’s distinguished designers, along with unparalleled sewing and dressmaking skills, has received little recognition due to our image as a manufacturer and supplier of cheaper raw materials. Therefore, the high value and potential of the Korean fashion remains unfulfilled. With the intense efforts of the designers of SFAA, KFDA, NWS3 and other designers who continued to hold their individual collections and shows, as well as the Seoul Metropolitan Government’s drive to develop Seoul into an Asian fashion capital, and for the sake of improving the image of the Korean fashion industry while insuring its competitiveness, it was decided to hold a joint fashion event to better position Seoul as an international fashion collection.4 From October 2000, the jointly-held Seoul Collection (Seoul Fashion Week) exhibitions received the formal support of the Seoul Fashion Center, Korean Fashion Association, and other bodies working under the auspices of the Seoul Metropolitan Government.

With the end of military dictatorship in the 1980s, Korea saw the arrival of consumerism caused by a surge in disposable income and economic growth. This paved the way for high fashion and the beginning of fashion shows in the 1990s. Fast forward a few years and, as Tokyo's significance in the global fashion industry grew, the Korean government started to develop and emphasise Seoul as an international fashion hub. Consequently, Seoul Fashion Week began in 2000, financially spearheaded by the government. Over the last ten years, it has given many talented Korean designers the opportunity to showcase their work. Andre Kim is perhaps Korea's most famous export whilst Doii Lee, who has worked with Kenzo and Christian Dior, has shown in Paris as well as Seoul. So, through Seoul Fashion Week, some Korean designers have received global recognition.

Yet, in Korea, the industry still seems slightly insular, with little Western coverage of Seoul Fashion Week, few international buyers attending its shows and a general lack of English on its website. This is highly problematic for foreigners and buyers wanting to purchase tickets. The shows have also been accused of being conservative and bland, attributed to being government funded. Here is an insightful article about the problems and challenges facing the Korean fashion industry http://www.koreaherald.com/lifestyle/Detail.jsp?newsMLId=20100405000712.

The general consensus from this article is that Korea has to make information more readily accessible to the outside world in order for Seoul Fashion Week to grow and elevate itself to compete with London, New York, Paris and Milan. Shows need to become less conservative and more flamboyant to interest international press and buyers. Furthermore, going global is necessary for the future of the Korean fashion industry http://www.koreatimes.co.kr/www/news/art/2010/06/199_58048.html and the government must use its resources to do this. More Korean designers need to receive global recognition. During New York Fashion Week in February, ten Korean designers showcased their work in Concept Korea, a government initiative. And hopefully, Seoul Fashion Week S/S 11 will help solve these issues furthermore and emphasise the talent and quality of Korean designers to international markets. I know I'm very excited about the possibilities and surprises I might see this Sunday.

On a last note, I realise this is a very patchy account of the industry. There is very little information in English about its history and growth. However, I hope the articles I have included give a basic understanding of the industry and its issues.