Sunday, September 12, 2010

Seoul's Only Vintage market




"What I really love about them... is the fact that they contain someone's personal history...I find myself wondering about their lives. I can never look at a garment... without thinking about the woman who owned it. How old was she? Did she work? Was she married? Was she happy?... I look at these exquisite shoes, and I imagine the woman who owned them rising out of them or kissing someone...I look at a little hat like this, I lift up the veil, and I try to imagine the face beneath it... When you buy a piece of vintage clothing you're not just buying the fabric and thread - you're buying a piece of someone's past."
— Isabel Wolff A Vintage Affair

"The idea of wearing old clothes was simply not mainstream. It wasn't until the early '90s and the ascendancy of grunge that vintage really hit the mainstream. Grunge as a fashion moment passed but the doors of vintage clothing shops had been thrown open, never to close. Subsequent trends meant interest in vintage has waxed and waned, but just barely. It has successfully permeated the red carpet, and instead of suggesting eccentricity, now suggests taste, a good eye and subtlety,''
- Tim Gunn A Guide to Quality, Taste & Style

Vintage clothes are appealing to people with distinct styles and tastes or people wanting to differentiate themselves from the masses. As Time Gunn points out, vintage has moved from the bohemian world to the popular sphere, championed by icons such as Kate Moss. In Glasgow, the vintage shops are excellent, with apparel ranging from the 50s to 90s, in good condition. It never occurred to me that Seoul would have a market for vintage wear, considering the dominance of malls, filled with cheap, throwaway fashion. This seems the opposite of vintage shopping, of rummaging for hours for one piece, hoping what you like doesn't have holes in it. Yet, after stumbling upon vintage shops in Hongdae, I did a little more research and found Gwangjang market. This is one of the oldest markets in Seoul with a traditional food market and hundreds of stalls selling hanbok and textiles. Imported mostly from Japan, the vintage section is located on the second floor.

Walking up the stairs, the musty smell of clothes hits you, reassuring when you are searching for vintage garments. In a tiny space, 80s woolly patterned jumpers, 50s flowery sundresses and blazers in all shapes and patterns are crammed to the heights. There are rows and rows of plaid and denim shirts, in amongst leather biker jackets and funny, but sometimes vulgar knitwear. I noticed a few pieces encapsulating trends of the moment, specifically military army jackets, leather, furry aviators and polka dot, 50s full skirts. Menswear and ladieswear is mixed together, accompanying chain bags, bowties, belts and suspenders. I invested in a sleek lady like bag, a cross between a satchel and boxy, 50s purse. This type of bag is another key trend for winter.




The majority of vintage clothes are overpriced considering their quality but here, prices range from 5000 won to 20 000 won, so it is very affordable and more reasonable than the vintage shops in Hongdae. Consequently, the customers were predominantly young, cool students, eagerly searching for something unique. Lugging armfuls of clothes, they want to separate themselves from the shoppers at Dongdaemun or Myeong dong, where mass produced clothes prevail. And, I would recommend this market for its difference to these shopping areas. Although it was tiring raking through the clothes, it was a fun, shopping experience.


This market can be reached by line 1, Jongro 3, exit 12. It is open from 6am to 6pm and closed on Sundays. All photos were taken by me.

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